I got it for Xmas and I was testing it for more than six months before writing this review. I'm not a big fan of night creams but this is something special, I would definitely re-purchase this product again.

I thought this cream will be shiny and leave an oily film on the skin in the morning (I have Combination skin) as this Capture Totale is luxury concentrated.

The only feeling on the skin I had in the morning is - perfectly smooth skin, recovered redness from sunburn from the day before and absolutely 'young and rested' complexion. 

I'm a big fan of luxury products, but I really didn't expect this effect from a usual cream.. but if your skin needs something special, or you feel your sin is suffering from stress and needs a boost of youth overnight - this is what you really need.

So, to give you more information I went on dior.com and it really claims to be a stress relief for your skin (!), but the thing is I figure out this before reading this information on the web, so it does the job (!)

Back in the past I worked in as a Beauty Advisor for luxury brands and I do remember ladies who use to coming back to re-purchase Dior skincare and spent £££ and I must say they looked amazing on their age. I wouldn't say they looked twenty years younger but they looked quite good and really luxury. This is a fact.

Name: full name is Dior Capture Totale Creme de Nuit Haute Regeneration Visage & Cou (Intensive Night Restorative Cream Face & Neck)

Range.

Capture Totale - is a global anti-ageing range (all signs visible of ageing), 

Packaging.

deluxe button opening jar, refillable (the inside of the jar can be replaced and outer part of the jar reused). So if you buy refill it saves you over £15. 

Texture.

Rich cream but of collagen kind of texture, it does absorb easily and the first effect you feel on the skin is 'relax' and 'replenish'. To be honest, I was expecting it to be greasier that's why I'm not a big fan of night creams, I just apply serum and that's it. 

This product has changed the way I feel about night creams, I heard that night creams just have to be in daily skin routine if you are over twenty five. But in the real life, because my skin is a combination I really didn't like the way night creams clog skin and I just wanted the skin to rest and feel free. But using light serums or Salycilic Acid based products bot gonna make much of anti age effect.

Application.

If your skin is Combination and you still want to use rich anti ageing products like Dior Capture Totale then the best way is exfoliating your skin and make sure it stays smooth and clean before you applying products like that. I would strongly recommend using toner before applying expensive stuff like that, straight away when skin is still damp after toner (I use Clinique Clarifying Lotion 2, because it is exfoliating as well).

Apply the cream onto the fingertips with spatula provided (more hygienic way), heat it up onto your fingertips for 5 seconds and then apply with smoothing movements from the centre of the face to the sides and then spreading to the neck upwards.

The amount of cream for one application should be 'a size of a pea', maybe a little bit more but not much than that. If you will use it this way this cream will last you for over six months. As you on the picture after the application skin appears smooth and not shiny at all.

So, here are ingredients you can find on Dior website:

Longoza Extract - So, Longoza is actually a town in Madagascar but not the mysterious name of an Exclusive plant. Dior does not mention Longoza Extract in the list of ingredients for this cream. I haven't found any botanical sources about the plant either. 

But what really is exclusive and states in the list of ingredients is  - 'Aframomum angustifolium' - is a basically a Madagascar Cardamon, a tropical plant with edible fruit and seed, mostly used in food and used as an aphrodisiac. (Source: http://tropical.theferns.info)

And Grape Seed Extract - great soothing properties, antioxidant, is it not an expensive or exclusive ingredient as you may guess. That's about all inforation you can find on the official dior web. 

Before giving the full list of ingredients I can say that this is the only Scientific names of the chemical compounds but we still don't know how those ingredients have been derived.

It may give you an idea what's in the jar, what goes on your skin and it is a really luxury and expensive cream or just a ripoff? And is it actually worth £140 for 60ml jar cream? It is for you to decide. 

 

Now is a full list of ingredients as it stated on the box:

AQUA - water is a base of all face creams, helps to dissolve most of the ingredients, only not oils and for those emulsifiers used;

GLYCERINE - locks moisture in the skin, a good carrier for oils and extracts;

DECYL OLEATE - skin conditioning agent, ester of Decyl Alcohol and Oleic Acid; 

HYDROGENATED PALM KERNEL GLYCERIDES - skin conditioning and viscosity controlling agent, derived from palm oil;

DIMETHICONE - silicon-based polymer, lubricating agent;

MANDIFERA INDICA (MANGO SEED BUTTER) - non-comedogenic (doesn't clog skin pores or creating acnes), a rich source of fatty acids and Vitamin A, perfect anti-age ingredient as smooth fine lines;

BUTYLENE GLYCOL - organic alcohol, solvent and conditioning, petroleum byproduct, not good;

CETYL ALCOHOL - emollient, thickener and carrying agent for most cosmetic ingredients; 

PANTYLENE GLYCOL - solvent and skin conditing agent; 

HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES - hydrogenated coconut oil; 

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE - synthetic polymer, and skin conditing and lubricating agent; 

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate - salt of Aluminium, preservative; 

DECYLOXAZOLIDINONE -  plasticizer, basically white crystals, skin conditioning, antimicrobial agent;

DIGLYCERINE - produced during reaction with glycerin, rich in fatty acids and used in cosmetic moisturisers;

GLYCERYL STEARATE - fatty acids from animal and vegetable oils, emulsifier (helps mix water and oils without separating);

MYRETH-3 MYRISTATE  - surfactant, emollient, synthetic polymer, not good for skin;

PEG 75 STEARATE - emulsifier, skin conditioning, polymer, nothing good is about this one;

CITRUS MADURENSIS FRUIT EXTRACT - hybrid of Citrus and Kumquat, skin toning and conditing benefits for skin;

ALCOHOL - it is not specified which alcohol and from which plant it was derivated, in big quantities may irritate the skin;

PARFUM (FRAGRANCE) - helps to create a nice scent to cosmetic products, some people have an allergy to a fragrance in personal care products;

HYDROGENATED PALM GLYCERIDES - palm oil after a process of hydrogenation, that allows liquid oily product remain solid at roo temperature; 

ACRYLATES/ C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER - synthetic product, controls a state of texture of the cream;

CETETH-20 - emulsifier and emollient; 

STEARETH-20 - synthetic polymer; 

DISODIUM EDTA - preservative, chelating agent - small percentage (2%) is cytotoxic and weakly genotoxic;

TOCOPHEROL ACETATE - Vitamin E;

XANTHAM GUM - natural thickener, found in food as well;

SODIUM HYDROXIDE - caustic soda, inorganic, unsafe only for eyes, non toxic; 

 SECALE CEREALE - Rye extract;

YEAST EXTRACT - is a mixture of flavonoids, sugars, vitamins, and amino acids, helping to reduce the amount of oxidative stress that occurs on the skin, the benefits of yeast extract can induce a calming effect that can help soothe and alleviate problematic skin

DECYL GLUCOSIDE - cleansing agent;

MALVA SYLVESTRIS (MALLOW EXTRACT) - soothing for dry or sensitive skin; 

DIMETHYLMETHOXY CHROMANOL - antioxidant, synthetic version of vitamin E;

ADENOSINE - yeast derived ingredient with calming and soothing properties; 

SORBITOL - sugar alcohol; 

BUTYLPHENYL METHYLPROPIONAL - synthetic perfume used for washing powder;

HYDROGENATED SOY PROTEIN - skin and hair conditioning agent; 

SODIUM METABISULFITE  - food preservative; 

SODIUM TOCOPHERYL PHOSPHATE - emulsion stabilising agent, skin conditioner;

LIMONENE - fragrance ingredient that naturally occurs in citrus; 

CAPRYLYL GLYCOL - skin conditioning agent;

HEXYLENE GLYCOL - fragrance; 

BHT - Butylated hydroxytoluene or Dibutylhydroxytoluene, is a lipophilic organic compound, chemically a derivative of phenol, that is useful for its antioxidant properties;

'Aframomum angustifolium' -  is a basically a Madagascar Cardamon, a tropical plant with edible fruit and seed, mostly used in food and used as an aphrodisiac. (Source: http://tropical.theferns.info)

POLYMER ALCOHOL - gel-based thickener; 

GERANIOL  - natural fragrance ingredient, known as 'oil-of-rose'; 

RICE PROTEIN - perfect for allergy prone skin and rich in amino acids; 

CITRONELLOL - derived from Lemongrass and used as a fragrance ingredient; 

ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE - fragrance and masking agent;

EVENING PRIMROSE ROOT EXTRACT - moisturizing, soothing and used in hair products for detangling properties;

GRAPE SEED EXTRACT - rich in proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins, all of which are very potent antioxidants that help to diminish environmental damage and soothing properties; 

CELLULOSE GUM - thickener; 

ETHYLHEXYLGLYCERIN - deodorant agent, highly irritating; 

Kluyveromyces - yeast extract;

SODIUM BENZOATE - food preservative; 

POLYGONUM BISTORTA ROOT EXTRACT or Snake Weed plant - antioxidant;

TOCOPHEROL - derived from plants is basically vitamin E;

CITRIC ACID - preservative; 

POTASSIUM SORBATE - is a potassium salt of sorbic acid, a naturally occurring antimicrobial compound; used as a preservative;

HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE GLYCERIDES CITRATE - skin conditioning agent.

So here are all ingredients listed straight from the box of purchased Dior Capture Totale Intensive Restoring Night Cream.

Well, I had a bit of a shock after looking into each ingredient through my sources...

Here are some PROS and CONS for the whole Ingredient research for over three days of my digging:

PROS:

Mango Butter - is amazing anti ageing, restoring and soothing properties, which is non comedogenic as well and gives that lighter moisture for more Combination skins as well as for Dry.

6th place in the list of ingredisnts says that this cream is full of Mango butter as well as almost as an actual base for this cream. 

CONS:

Polymers and synthetic skin conditioning agents - like petroleum byproducts or vaseline, which are cheap to produce and cost almost nothing;

Synthetic fragrance that used in washing powder - why would you use synthetic fragrances in £140 cream???

Palm oil - this is somehting you would expect in mass market products really, but here you go...

Cleansing agents and solvent - I can understand if we would be reviewing facial wash but cleansing agents in highend luxury cream? For what?

Made up name of Exclusive tropical plant - Longoza Extract..

FULL of preservatives.. for example, Phenoxyethanol - this preservative ususally the last in the ingredients list of most luxury cosmetic products, but here this one just right in the middle of the list that states to be not good. Well, this type of preservative is partuculary new and not satudied completely so I woudn't put too much hopes into it.

Is it worth your money?

To be honest, before I looked into ingredients I would repurchase it but now I can see that maybe there is nothing special about this cream.

What really doesn't make you trust to this product is the marketing made up tropical plant Longozola which is only a basic Madagascar Cardamon and used mostly for food.

I would pay for it £65 the most really but £140 for a cream full of synthetic polymers, lubricant and skin conditioning agents. 

If you have any comment about this review feel free to leave a comment. 

Doesn’t matter if you're spending couple quid for your face cream or you shop in High End Stores, you wonder what’s really in a jar? 

Reading ingredients can help quite useful and you should know ‘they do not write information how it was derived and from Super Plant or Cheap Petrol.

But some chemicals you can’t really hide behind looooong complicated names.

So, here is four main Nasty Ingredients that cosmetic brands use the most.

#1

SLS (Sodium Laureth Sulphate or Lauryl Sulphate)

Cosmetic products: shampoo (you’d be straggling to find shampoo without it), facial cleansers, shower and bath, anything that ‘makes foam’. The way it cleanse it oxidizes skin and hair leaving residue.

Usually, SLS extracted from Coconut, so brands have a right to say about Natural Content on the label.

What may cause: Long term use of shampoo with SLS can irritate skin and hair and creates a coating that hard to wash out. Can stings eyes, dandruff and hair loss and accumulates in an organism.

What’s right: SLS free products: Macadamia Natural Oil Shampoo, Giovanni All Hair Products, Erayba Hydra-Ker Shampoo,

"I always used mass market shampoo. After a while I started notice hair loss.  I didn’t dye my hair and always used conditioners, hair masks and leave to dry it naturally.

 I started searching on internet and I found one article where scientists say that SLS may cause irritation, dandruff and even hair loss!  I ran to my beauty mass market shop and didn’t find any shampoo without SLS! I finally found one in pharmacy. I swapped it.

My hair was slowly getting use to new shampoo. It became clean and healthy like never before. After couple of months hair loss absolutely gone and my hair back to normal! From now on I shop only for SLS-free products.

It might be an individual reaction, but think if you are using SLS for years?.."

#2

Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil)

Cosmetic products: Moisturizer, creams, body lotions, lip balms, hands creams.

What may cause: As ideal lubricant locks moisture and clogs pores making skin  unbreathable and in this condition skin can be irritated, prone to eczema, dry out, otherwise the feeling ‘on the surface’ is really smooth.

What’s right: Aloe Vera Juice, Jojoba Oil, Cocoa Butter, Shea Butter are plenty not-so-expensive ingredients that will give a real benefit to your skin!

People who has eczema can’t use even natural based products and use Prescription Only products.

#3

Silicones (Dimethiconol,Silica)

Cosmetic products: Make Up Base & Primers, Foundation, Wrinkle Fillers and even some skincare products.

What may cause: Same as Mineral Oil or Paraffinum Liquidum lubricates and make skin’s surface plumped and smooth but gives for skin nothing.

What’s right? Silicones make skin immediately plumped and wrinkle-free.

To get the same effect helps Oat Sugars in Clarins Extra Firming Botanical Serum, Plant Proteins (Rice Protein/Soy Bean Protein) that gives smooth finish for skin.

#4

Preservatives (Propylparaben, Ethylparaben, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Imidazolidinyl Urea, Chlorphenesin, )

Cosmetic products: All of them.

What May Cause: Skin Irritation, Skin problems (Rosacea, Acne) and even Cancer in some cases as most Preservatives accumulates in organism. All Preservatives has a toxic score and level of safety that you can easily search online.

What’s right? Citric Acid or even usual Table salt (NaCl) can be perfect natural preservative.  Widely used to preserve antioxidants: Vitamin E, some plant extracts (Rosemary, Grapefruit, Grapefruit).

Potassium sorbate and ascorbic acid (vitamin C)is a preservative widely used as in foods as in cosmetics.

"My name is Alina Perfance and I make my own Natural Handmade and Sustainable Skincare for over four years now.

Before I started using my own skincare I was quite far from word Sustainable as I was working for High End beauty brands.

I was twenty two and I knew very little how big industries work. In 2016  I quit my job and with support of my husband I started my own brand. 

I still love High End make up but I would never return to High End face creams!" 

Sharing with you my morning skincare routine in a short video and description below! 

FACE MASK

Every morning I use Green Clay Mattifying Face Mask to exfoliate, remote impurities and dead cells built up overnight. I think it really helps to keep my skin clean and free from acne. If I spend most of my day outside - I use face mask in the evening to give my skin a deep cleanse!

Removing Green Clay Mask: the best way with cotton face cloth, slightly soaked in warm water. 

FACE CREAM + SERUM

I mix Skin Food Moisturiser with Elixir No1 Serum - the best thing that works for me. 

EYE CREAM

Perfance Eye Plumper gives that lift and anti wrinkle action, I think using eye cream everyday is very important as area under eye doesn't produce oil itself and needs that extra care.

MAKE UP

You will never see me without make up but I use make up everyday but minimizing products that I use to create quick flash make up: Concealer + Powder for complexion and Eye liner + Eye Shadow with Mascara + Brow Enhancer. 

With Complexion particularly: I have ditched full coverage foundations for two reasons: I don't have to hide my skin and heavy make up makes me look older.

I do try and use natural good for skin concealers where I need to cover up and set it with Translucent loose powder.

Wearing face covering did make me enhancing eyes much more these days.

I keep my lips well moisturised with 100% Virgin Shea Butter - it is light and supple, non sticky and helps to heal even very dry lips. Have you tried it? I encourage you to try! 

Sustainability in a glance quick video!

Today I was making a face toner for our client in Lancaster, watch video in a glance: from ingredients to shipping wrapping it is all with zero waste in mind. 

Watch step by step how we package our toners into sustainable, plastic free and eco-friendly packing.

Actual size of the bottle is quite decent - 250ml glass bottle. 

Here in Perfance we use only recycled paper for wrapping as most of our sales comes from online channels so we take a good care of shipping wrapping so your goods arrive safe and sound. 

Finally boxing - we do not add any marketing cards or advertisement in parcels that we send to you, just a thank you card and tell who we are. So in case you are ordering as a gift you won't get any receipts in your package. 

I'll be posting series of videos #HowTo make liquid castile soap 🤲🥽🥼

STEP 1: Prepare!

On the video are measured oils - Raw Organic Coconut and Extra virgin olive oil, bottles, protective gear: goggles and gloves, heat proof glass bowl.

When you are making soap very important to wear protective gear as everything is very hot!

Also very important to know when your soap is ready and reaches the trace so then you can turn your soap base into a liquid soap and bottle it.

Step 2: Mixing water and potash

Mixing water and potash: very important to add potash to water (do not pour water over potash, it will create dangerous splashes!) little by little as it heats up very quickly, once mixed well add it to your oils to create a soap.

Step 3: Adding potash to oils.

Oils have to be melted and mixed together.

Once potash is completely dissolved and water has cleared out add it to you oils and that's when the mixing is starting. Wear protective gear at all times! 

 Step 4: Mixing!

Get the process started and mix with hand mixer for at least five minutes. Heating up a mixture on marie bain will speed up the reaction, but you don't have to, eventually mixture will turn in to a thick blob which will be the base for your liquid castile soap. 

 Step 5: Do not let mixture to separate. 

Try mixing every 10 minutes until the whole thing is well incorporated and thick. Do not use any metal spoons and tableware as it will react with soap. 

Step 6: Reaching the trace.

After mixing several times mixture will reach the trace - small foam will appear and translucent blobs.

Step 7: Soap is completely translucent.

When soap is thick and translucent it's ready! It will reach amber colour and will be difficult to mix, foam will be gone and soap is ready! 

Step 8: Dissolving soap base in water to make it a liquid castile soap. 

Adding hot water little by little and after 15 hrs your soap will be completely dissolved. The best way is mixing consonantly, hand mixer will only create a foam. 

Step 9 Bottling and maturing.  

After 15 hrs of dissolving I strain and bottle soap ready to mature for 3 months. 

 I got couple of vintage bottles with tight closures and I store castile liquid soap in a dark place for 3 months.

Castile soap has many uses, head over here to read blog 12 uses for Castile Soap

After 3 months I bottle my soap into a glass 250ml bottles and use only aluminium caps.

No plastic and only sustainable inside and out!